First Impressions
Let's get the obvious out of the way: Empress 1908 is stunning to look at. The deep indigo colour, derived from butterfly pea blossom, transforms to a vivid pink or lavender when mixed with citrus or tonic. It's a visual trick that has made this one of the most photographed gins on social media, and it would be easy to dismiss it as pure gimmick. I've certainly been sceptical of visually-led spirits in the past. But Empress 1908 surprised me. Behind the colour change, there's a genuinely well-made gin.
The name references the Fairmont Empress Hotel in Victoria, British Columbia, where an afternoon tea tradition inspired the botanical selection. It's a charming story, and for once, the liquid supports the narrative.
The Distillery
Victoria Distillers is based in Sidney, British Columbia, on the shores of the Salish Sea. The distillery produces Empress 1908 using a combination of maceration and vapour infusion in a copper pot still. The butterfly pea blossom — the botanical responsible for the colour — is added as a post-distillation infusion. The flower itself is widely used in Southeast Asian cooking (I encountered it regularly in drinks in Bangkok and Singapore), and its natural pigment is pH-sensitive: indigo in neutral conditions, shifting to pink in acidic environments.
Beyond the visual spectacle, the botanical selection shows thought. Rose, grapefruit peel, ginger root, and cinnamon create a flavour profile that's floral and spiced, with the tea-adjacent earthiness of the butterfly pea blossom adding a subtle depth. It's a more considered recipe than you might expect from a gin that leads with its looks.
Tasting
The nose is predominantly floral. Rose arrives first — a genuine, fresh rose petal character that's sweet without being perfumed or soapy. Grapefruit citrus adds brightness and a slightly bitter edge. Juniper is gentle but present, providing enough gin character to anchor the florals. Cinnamon contributes warmth, and there's a faint earthiness from the butterfly pea blossom that adds an interesting, slightly tea-like quality. It's an attractive, approachable nose.
On the palate, florals and citrus continue to lead. Rose petal sweetness is the headline — well-judged, present without dominating, providing a perfumed quality that's elegant rather than overwhelming. Grapefruit brightness keeps things lively, and coriander adds a gentle spice that bridges the floral and citrus elements. Ginger warmth builds in the mid-palate, adding a savoury dimension, and juniper provides a soft backbone. The mouthfeel at 42.5% is clean and medium-bodied — this is a gin with enough structure to be taken seriously.
What I appreciate about Empress 1908 is that it doesn't abandon gin identity in pursuit of visual spectacle. The juniper is understated but functional, the botanicals are balanced, and the overall profile has coherence. It's not the most complex gin on the shelf, but it's well-constructed and genuinely pleasant to drink. The butterfly pea blossom contributes more than just colour — there's a subtle, earthy depth that adds a dimension you wouldn't expect.
The finish is medium. Rose petal persistence is the dominant theme, accompanied by a citrus fade and a warm cinnamon-ginger close that's comforting and clean.
How to Drink It
The visual transformation demands to be seen at least once, so your first serve should be a G&T. Pour the indigo gin over ice, add Fever-Tree Indian Tonic, and watch it shift to pink-purple. Garnish with a grapefruit slice. Beyond the spectacle, it genuinely tastes good — the floral-citrus profile works beautifully with tonic's quinine bitterness.
In cocktails, Empress 1908 makes a visually striking and delicious French 75 or a Gimlet. It's also excellent in a simple Gin & Soda with a squeeze of lime, which triggers the colour change in a more subtle, elegant way. For a dramatic party trick, use it in a layered cocktail where the indigo gin sits below a citrus-based mixer — the colour change happens in real time as the drink is stirred.
The Bottom Line
Empress 1908 earns a 7 for delivering genuine quality behind its visual appeal. At $35, you're paying a slight premium for the butterfly pea blossom spectacle, but the base gin is well-made enough to justify the price. It's not the deepest or most complex gin available, and purists may find the floral-forward profile too gentle. But for anyone who wants a gin that's both a conversation starter and a quality spirit, Empress 1908 strikes a rare balance. The colour change gets people interested. The flavour keeps them drinking.
